Monday, March 16, 2015

How we curate our collection. A response to the article on Mast Brothers

Our team evaluating chocolate
Yesterday posted an article titled, "The High End Chocolate World Hates Mast Brothers: Why do specialty shops refuse to carry one of the best known craft chocolate brands in the country?"

I agreed to be quoted for this article because I believe Mast Brothers receives an unfair share of press, and there are some talented chocolate makers who don't receive their share. I'm glad to see Rogue Chocolatier, Patric Chocolate, Fruition Chocolate Works and Amano Artisan Chocolate mentioned as some of the best. The title of the article, however, is unfortunate. My father taught me never to use the word "hate" for anything. He said that was how the Holocaust started. While I haven't found Mast Brothers to be worthy of the praise it receives, I certainly don't "hate" it.

So why don't we sell Mast Brothers' chocolate? They may be "one of the best known craft chocolate brands in the country," but they haven't scored high marks on our tasting evaluation panel. They're not unique in that accomplishment. Let me explain.

As one of the premier craft chocolate retailers in the country, we receive a lot of chocolate samples from craft chocolate makers who would like us to add their chocolate to our collection. While most chocolate makers are incredibly passionate about chocolate and their craft, not all of them create chocolate our tasters would consider good. If you're going to pay $10-$12 for a bar of chocolate, we want to make sure you're getting something we're proud to sell you for that price.

For the first few years Chocolopolis was open, I'd taste the chocolate samples we received, and I'd make the decision about what we'd carry. However, like any human, I have my tasting biases, and those may be different than the tasting preferences of my employees and customers. For example, I'm not a fan of heavy roasts or anything that might make chocolate taste like coffee. I tend to prefer a lighter roast on my cacao along with notes that are more fruity and floral. I'm less likely to prefer a bar with earthy notes, but some people prefer earthy over fruity. My tastes aren't "correct", they're just preferences. You get the idea.

About a year ago we enlisted a group of customers from our Frequent Bar Club to join our employees in a monthly tasting panel. We prepped them on our philosophy and approach to choosing chocolate, and they committed to join us once a month.

So what happens when you have a group of random chocolate lovers rate chocolate? They all have different opinions. No great surprise when you're dealing with different peoples' tastes. While their opinions may differ, the bulk of the ratings and comments from our tasting panels tend to fall into groups. Like you'd expect in any statistical group, most chocolates receive an "average" rating.

I'm not willing, however, to stake our reputation or spend our money on "average" chocolate. A chocolate has to be well above average or "world class" to gain entry to our shelves.

What are the criteria we're evaluating? Taste and texture.

It takes a skilled chocolate maker to create a complex chocolate, one that begins with one flavor note and continues to change and evolve into others as the chocolate melts in your mouth. Many of the chocolates we taste are "one-note", offering one flavor profile throughout the melt. Some might have two notes, but very few offer flavor complexity.

Complexity is only part of flavor equation. The flavors need to taste good. For example, while there are certain cacao-growing regions that tend to produce smokier cacao, the chocolate shouldn't taste like a bonfire. A few medicinal notes in a chocolate may make it interesting, but too many and it becomes an unpleasant affair. I've tasted bars with strong diesel, bacon and rubber notes (all in one bar). Not something I'd be willing to pay for.

While these savory, earthy notes may sound unpleasant in chocolate, I'd like to offer up a bar that I wish we could sell in the store as an example of an earthy flavor profile that works. The French chocolate maker and Chocolatier, Bernachon, creates a chocolate from the bean that offers leather and tobacco notes. I tasted his chocolate for the first time and I thought, "Now I know what leather and tobacco taste like." It's one of the most interesting bars I've ever tasted, and it totally works. It has wonderful complexity and texture, and it challenges my palate. It's one I probably wouldn't eat on a daily basis given my preference for fruity and floral notes, but I appreciate it and recognize the skill of the maker.

The second criterion for evaluation is texture.

Texture is one of the areas where most craft chocolate makers miss the mark. There are only a handful of chocolate makers who have conquered texture, most of them listed at the top of this post. Excluding unrefined chocolate from this criteria (e.g., Taza and Claudio Corallo), chocolate should be smooth and creamy. Unfortunately, the chocolate samples we receive from most makers are gritty or chalky or have a peanut-butter-like stickiness that is goopy and chalky at the same time.

We almost never receive a sample with good texture. It's disappointing, particularly when we taste a chocolate with great flavor. Sometimes poor texture is enough to scuttle a bar's chances, even if the flavor is great.

The craft chocolate market has grown significantly from the six American craft chocolate makers who were producing when we opened the store in 2008. There are new craft chocolate makers popping out of the woodwork every day. It makes our job a lot of fun because we get to taste and try new chocolate, and I am optimistic that each new taste will bring us a world-class chocolate that we can add to our shelves.

In the coming months, we're even planning some regional "throw downs" for our tasting panel. We'll be pitting bars from the same region that we already sell against each other to make sure they're still worthy of shelf space. It should be fun, and we're hoping these chocolates continue to make the cut.


Zyanya said...

Thank you for contributing to this conversation! While visiting friends in Brooklyn a few years ago they were excited to bring me into Mast to have some chocolate samples. I actually walked right back outside and spit the chocolate out in a bush because I was so shocked by the chalky texture in my mouth and, honestly, insulted by how poorly made it was. I'm not a picky eater, and I'll eat plenty of things I don't like. But after talking to people about Mast, including their staff in the store, the contrast of what I actually put in my mouth and what I thought I was putting in my mouth made me react so dramatically! I went back in to try another piece because I thought I must have gotten a piece that had been out for ages. There was no improvement. The power of marketing is an incredible thing...

Clint Hall said...

What a good blog. Wine critics should take note. Instead of the typical Robert Parker single standard, Lauren Adler acknowledges that in many ways taste preferences are just that, preferences, not the "correct" answers. And the criteria Lauren uses to select her chocolates are much the same that one uses to select wines: taste, texture, and...Hey! how did aroma get left out?

Yvonne said...

Thank you for the reminders of what makes great chocolate great and for the hard work you do to curate your selection so that we can enjoy the best. I've not been to Mast Brothers but was wowed by their the presentation of their cook book. Agree that marketing and presentation certainly does have sway.

Darcy said...

I really liked this post too. I read the article that you responded to first so I'd have a background for where you were coming from. Very informative and exciting. Thank you for taking the time to contribute to the conversation!