Saturday, September 22, 2012

What We’re Eating: Escazu Pumpkin Seeds & Guajillo Chili Chocolate Bar

Escazu Pumpkin Seeds & Guajillo Chili 74% Dark ChocolateIf you can’t decide between a crunchy snack and a piece of chocolate, than look no further than the Escazu Pumpkin Seeds & Guajillo Chili chocolate bar. The pumpkin seeds provide a satisfying crunch with a hint of salt. The guajillo chili, though mild, complements the pumpkin seeds and adds just pinch of spice to the bar. Of course you can’t forget the most important part, the chocolate. The chocolate is created using a wonderful blend of cacao from Venezuela, Costa Rica, and Ecuador. Its smooth texture paired with the crunch of the seeds creates a delightful eating experience.


Stop by today from 11am-5pm to taste a sample of the Escazu Pumpkin Seeds & Guajillo Chili chocolate bar.

Anna
Chocolate Bar-ista

Friday, September 14, 2012

What We're Eating: Pralus Mélissa 45%

Francois Pralus Melissa 45% Milk Chocolate
We have plenty of delicious dark chocolate bars here at Chocolopolis, but every once in a while I like to indulge in some milk chocolate. At these times I head straight to the Southeast Asia section of the store for the Mélissa 45% milk chocolate bar by François Pralus.
Before trying this bar I thought that I only liked milk chocolate inclusion bars since most milk chocolate bars seemed bland to me. I was delighted to find that the Mélissa bar was more complex than any milk chocolate I had ever tasted before working at this store. It is creamy with notes of caramel and a subtle smoky taste. This is the perfect bar for milk chocolate lovers that are looking for something a little different.

Stop by Saturday from 11am-5pm to taste a sample of Pralus Mélissa 45% milk chocolate.

Anna
Chocolate Bar-ista

Wednesday, September 5, 2012

What do Fairtrade & Direct Trade Have to Do with Quality?

One of the biggest challenges the artisan chocolate community faces is perception. Consumers have perceptions around many of the issues that define artisan chocolate, such as the monikers for "fair trade" and "direct trade". What do these terms mean? It depends upon whom you ask. They are complex issues that are not easily reduced to a sound byte.

And that's the problem.These terms often end up reduced to a label used for marketing hype. I can't blame the marketers. The issues are complex and messy. They don't make an easy story for marketing purposes. Unfortunately, when reduced to a simple moniker, such as "fair trade", they often take on perceived meanings that may not be entirely accurate. I thought it would be useful to provide some thoughts on how fair trade and direct trade affect the cacao industry. Since fair trade and direct trade are meaty topics that would fill many pages, I'm going to provide a few high-level examples from recent conversations I've had with experts on these topics.


Let's start with fair trade. As Dr. Kristy Leissle (a.k.a., Dr. Chocolate) pointed out at our recent Serious Chocolate Talk ("Is my chocolate bar Fair, Direct or Free?"), one of the challenges with the formalized certification body, Fair Trade International (aka, "FLO"), is that there are dozens of pages of administrative, environmental, economic and other rules that members must follow to earn the label of Fairtrade certified. The administration of these rules is something that's put together by chocolate consuming countries (e.g., developed nations) and imposed upon cacao producing countries that have little to no infrastructure. Dr. Leissle points out that FLO has done a lot to raise awareness of the plight of farmers growing agricultural commodities in the Third World. It has not, however, been the economic revolution it purports to be.

Fairtrade certification can be expensive and logistically difficult to maintain, and in most situations it does not provide incentives for the farmer to produce quality cacao. The current $200 per metric ton Fairtrade premium is typically used to fund development projects at the village level, such as installing water pumps or digging wells. These projects do benefit farmers, but they are not explicitly intended to improve cacao quality and have nothing to do with growing fine flavor strains.

By contrast, many of the small-batch chocolate makers pay 2-3x the world market rate for cacao, and they usually purchase more directly from the farmer. For some prized cacao, they're often paying much more than 2-3x the world market rate. The current bulk market commodity price for cacao is approximately $2,450 per metric ton (as of August 20, 2012). Isn't it in the farmer's benefit to receive $4,900 per metric ton (2x $2,450) for growing a fine flavor strain than it is for them to receive $2,600 ($2,400+$200 Fairtrade premium) per metric ton of bulk cacao?

But it's not just the farmer who benefits. Chocolate eaters benefit as well. Paying the farmers a premium for quality creates incentive for them to continue to produce quality varietals of cacao using excellent fermentation techniques. This results in some darn good chocolate.

So what, exactly, is direct trade? Not surprisingly, it depends upon whom you ask. Unlike Fairtrade, there is no certification body for direct trade. There are many different examples of what I'd consider direct trade. For me, it comes down to stated principles that provide the farmer with incentives to produce quality cacao and leave him or her with more of the profits, eliminating layers of middlemen. There are many different ways to accomplish this in the complex world of cacao sourcing. I offer a few as examples.

I'll start with a brief mention of Askinosie Chocolate, whose purchasing practices I discussed in more detail in another blog post. Askinosie develops relationships with farmers, purchases cacao directly from them and shares 10% of profits with them. That's about as direct as it gets.

Taza Chocolate, a small-batch American chocolate maker, purchases 90% of its cacao from a cooperative in the Dominican Republic called La Red. Taza has created its own certification called "Direct Trade Certified Cacao" based on its relationship with La Red. While creating your own certification might sound like a marketing ploy, it actually can work well in a situation like Taza's. By setting up criteria that are clear, simple and important to both Taza and the farmer, Taza is able to keep bureaucracy to a minimum and provide the farmer with incentives to produce quality cacao. Taza pays the farmer a premium to produce organic cacao using fair and humane labor practices with a minimum of a 95% fermentation rate and 7% or less moisture content. It's straightforward and it's focused on quality measurements.

I had a long phone conversation with Colin Gasko of Rogue Chocolatier, one of my favorite craft chocolate makers, to better understand how he sources cacao. He produces some of the smallest batches of chocolate around, and he currently makes 4 different single-origin bars. His sourcing model demonstrates the many complexities of buying cacao, particularly as a small-batch maker who purchases small quantities of cacao.

Colin's cacao sourcing strategy varies depending upon the origin of the cacao. He buys from renowned cooperatives in some countries, shares containers that come from well-known farms in other countries, and buys directly in others. In situations where Colin might develop a direct relationship with a farmer, he usually hires a broker when it comes time to make a purchase of cacao from the farmer.

Why hire a broker? Brokers are better equipped to deal with importation logistics, such as customs and freight. As Colin put it, he doesn't have the scale or expertise to be an importer, and that's not where his time is best spent. Does Colin's direct relationship with the farmer classify as direct trade, even though he's hiring a broker? I would say most definitely "yes". In this example, most of the layers of middle men have been eliminated from Colin's purchasing process and the farmer receives much more of the value of his cacao in payment. In addition, Colin is often paying considerably more than the world market rate to the farmer for producing quality cacao.

As you can see, fair trade and direct trade are complex issues that really can't be covered in a sound byte or one blog post. So what can a conscientious consumer do? Look beyond the labels. Understanding the truth behind your chocolate takes a bit of research. If you really want to know, you'll need to do the work.

The best starting point is the chocolate maker's website. See what they have to say about how they source cacao, and if you don't see anything, ask. The way they answer the question and their willingness to talk about the issues will also give you an idea of how they view the issue altogether.

Make sure to also compare what you learn from different sources. For example, many of the largest chocolate companies in the world are members of the World Cocoa Foundation, a 501(c)(3) that was established to improve the incomes of poor cacao farmers. The World Cocoa Foundation has a number of nobly stated goals, but exactly what do they mean in practice? Is your bar of chocolate helping the farmers improve their incomes? If so, how? How does this approach contrast with the approach of the small-batch makers? Do these goals encourage the farmer to plant better varietals and improve fermentation?

You may be saying to yourself, "But I just want to eat my chocolate bar, already!". I don't blame you. It's a lot of serious talk for such a happy treat. Let me simplify this for you. Don't take labels at face value. I'm not saying you shouldn't purchase chocolate with labels like Fairtrade and direct trade. I'm just saying that you shouldn't assume that they're a panacea to a farmer's problems. They might be, but without doing the research, you won't know.

Happy chocolate tasting,
Lauren
Chief Chocophile

Monday, September 3, 2012

Vote for Us for Best Chocolate in Western Washington

I'm not one to aggressively toot my own horn, so when it comes to shameless self-promotion I sometimes drop the ball. When you own a small retail store, though, you learn that shameless self-promotion of your business can be a necessary tool for continued prosperity. It's with this thought in mind that I'm going to do something I don't usually do. Ask for your vote.

King5 TV's Evening Magazine is running its annual "Best of Western Washington" contest. In the past we've been included in this contest, but we haven't mentioned it to anyone. That means we don't win or even make a respectable showing. But I think we've got some of the best chocolate around, be it our own confections, those of other talented chocolatiers, or chocolate bars from our very large collection of craft chocolate. We deserve to be a serious contender. So here goes,

Please vote for us!


Thanks for your consideration. It means a lot to us!

Happy chocolate tasting,
Lauren
Chief Chocophile

Saturday, September 1, 2012

What We're Eating: Madecasse 70%


Madagsacar is one of my favorite origins for chocolate. It's the region that introduced me to single-origin chocolate and helped me understand that quality dark chocolate doesn't have to be unpleasantly bitter. While much of the cacao used to make Madagscar-origin chocolate comes from one very large farm, the cacao for the Madécasse 70% bar comes from a small cooperative in the Ezaka village that was set up by two former peace corps volunteers. The Madécasse 70%  shows off the wonderful tart cherry and citrus notes that I love. This bar has a bit of a chalky texture, so it's not quite as creamy and smooth as some other contenders, but the cherry notes are balanced and have a chocolaty finish. It's a very enjoyable bar that encourages poor farmers to produce quality cacao while also keeping all of the chocolate production in the country of Madagascar. This bar really gives back to the country of origin. 


Stop by today for a taste of Madécasse 70% and let us know what you think.

Happy chocolate tasting,
Lauren
Chief Chocophile

Friday, August 24, 2012

What We're Eating: Salty Nutty Blonde

I chose this bar because we make it right in our own kitchen! Our lovely Chocolatiers, Dominica and Sebastian, use one of our favorite milk chocolates (Valrhona Jivara) and load it with perfectly sized bits of peanut. Then they top the bars with even more peanuts and a sprinkling of sea salt.

Peanuts and chocolate are an age old combination but when this combo is executed with the finest chocolate and the perfect amount of crunch and salt, the result is totally addictive. I love it when Dominica is in the kitchen producing this bar because she always makes a little left-over slab of chocolaty-peanuty-salty goodness for anyone who's lucky enough to be working!


Roxanne
Chocolate Bar Tender

Thursday, August 16, 2012

What We're Eating: Pacari Sea Salt & Nibs


The Pacari Salt & Nibs chocolate bar is a top contender in my lineup of chocolate favorites.  This bar is especially unique because it is made with raw chocolate. It is not, however, one of those weird-tasting raw chocolates that make you feel as if you are eating the diet-food-imitation-version of a chocolate bar. This bar is the real thing, and you can taste integrity of the ingredients.  What I enjoy most about this chocolate bar is the unexpected smooth luxurious flavor of the Ecuadorian chocolate combined with the salt.  The taste reminds me of salted butter toffee, and the addition of the little bits of crunch from the cocoa nibs completes the experience.

Stop by Saturday from 11am-5pm to taste a sample of Pacari Sea Salt & Nibs.

Dominica
Chocolatier

Saturday, August 4, 2012

What We're Eating: Original Beans Beni Wild Harvest 66%, Bolivia


Original Beans' Beni Wild Harvest 66% holds true to its dried cranberry and melon fruit notes that go perfectly with its creamy texture.  I love this bar because it’s not too strong on my palate, but has a subtle complexity that keeps my interest throughout the whole eating experience.  This bar is perfect for the dark chocolate eater who wants something a little more subtle but still full of flavor.  I’ve been told since I started working here that one can never really go wrong when deciding on an Original Beans bar, and this particular bar definitely fits that statement.  I hope you do try it and enjoy it as much as I do. 

Stop by today between 11am & 5pm for a taste of the Original Beans Beni Wild Harvest, Bolivia 66% bar.
 
Stacey
Chocolate Bar Tender

Friday, July 27, 2012

What We're Eating: Fresco Jamaica 210

It's Fresco Chocolate week at Chocolopolis! We're featuring two Bars of the Week this week since two of our team members chose Fresco chocolate as their picks. Rob Anderson from Fresco Chocolate will be here on Saturday from 1-3pm, handing out samples and talking chocolate. Sebastian reviewed Fresco Ghana earlier this week, and now it's Emily's turn to review her favorite Fresco bar. Hope we'll see you Saturday! - Lauren, Chief Chocophile

Fresco Jamaica
I'm back with my staff pick for Anniversary month. This one is near and dear to me right now. In fact, it traveled 3,172 miles with me to visit it's country of Origin. Don't you bring chocolate with you when you travel? You never know what the supply might be like wherever you end up, so it's always a good idea to have a stash on hand.

What a view right?


The ocean looks pretty good too.

My husband and I savored this bar one little square at a time while lounging pool side trying to describe it to each other (I'm sure our fellow pool-goers thought us quite strange). Boy is it elusive.  Hints of jasmine and tropical fruits with a subtle, rustic, almost smoky taste ending in a sweet (but not too sweet) finish. Every time I eat it I am transported back to those warm beaches and turquoise seas with the smell of the jerk hut wafting our way. Chocolate is a powerful memory, and Fresco's Jamaica 210 will definitely stick in my memory.

Cheers!
Emily
Purveyor of fine chocolate

Wednesday, July 25, 2012

Help Fund a Rogue Way of Making Chocolate

Colin Gasko
As many of our regulars know, Colin Gasko, founder and chocolate maker of Rogue Chocolatier, makes some of our favorite chocolate. If you follow Colin's tweets you know he is a perfectionist, obsessed with the art and science of making craft chocolate from cacao beans. You probably also know that he likes eclectic music. But did you know that Colin has developed a "rogue" way of making chocolate?


His new process for milling and conching cacao beans will improve his chocolate's flavor, aroma and texture while also increasing his production capacity by 50%. For those of you Rogue devotees who have had to wait for Colin to make enough chocolate to fill our shelves and satisfy your demand, this should be good news!


While Colin is long on chocolate passion and expertise, he's short on capital. He's harnessing the passion of his customers to raise $20,000 through crowd funding site, Kickstarter. If you're not familiar with Kickstarter, it's a platform for entrepreneurs, artists or anyone with a creative project to get funding from anyone interested in their project. In return, donors receive unique benefits at different donation levels. However, there's a catch. If the project isn't fully funded (e.g., Colin doesn't meet his goal of $20,000), Rogue Chocolatier receives nothing. Zilch. Bupkis.


The onus is on us to make sure Colin reaches the $20,000 mark! Colin has set up a wide range of donation levels that begin at $10 and go as high as $5,000, with lots of levels and rewards in between. We're throwing in a sweetener (cane sugar only) to make it even better for our customers.



Rogue Single-Origin Bars
Pledge $125 or more to the Rogue Chocolatier Kickstarter campaign and you'll receive an invitation to an exclusive launch party in Seattle to celebrate Colin's new chocolate. The only way to receive an invitation to this party is to pledge at least $125. Make sure you don't miss out on an exclusive gathering of the chocolate cognoscenti who, like you, are passionate about craft chocolate made from the finest single-origin cacao.


We look forward to seeing you at the Rogue Chocolatier launch party this Fall!

Happy chocolate tasting,
Lauren
Chief Chocophile

Monday, July 23, 2012

What We're Eating: Fresco Ghana 211

During anniversary month each of our staff members gets to choose a bar of the week for us to feature. While we all like excellent chocolate, we all have different palates, so it's fun to see who will choose which bar.

Emily and Sebastian both chose bars by Fresco. Since Fresco founder and chocolate maker, Rob Anderson, will be here Saturday to sample his bars between 1 & 3, we decided to feature both Emily and Sebastian's picks this week. Sebastian's pick is below. We'll post Emily's Fresco choice on Friday. Stop by Saturday between 1&3 to meet Rob and taste these bars along with his other single-origin bars. - Lauren


Fresco 211 73% Dark Chocolate
Rob Anderson is a soulful and heart-warming person. His personality shines in the terrific chocolate he makes. Fresco Ghana is a truly unique bar. It is smooth and not overpowering, with flavors of oak, nuts and leather. This bar stops me in my tracks every time, making me think of the forest during the autumn.

Stop by Saturday and try a sample of Fresco's Ghana bar and don't forget to be here Saturday the 28th to meet the chocolate maker, Rob Anderson, in person.

Cheers!
Sebastian
Chocolatier


Thursday, July 12, 2012

What We're Eating: Bonnat Madagascar 75%

Bonnat Madagascar 75% Dark Chocolate








The Bonnat Madagascar 75% bar is the chocolate that started Chocolopolis. Why do I say that?

I never liked dark chocolate, or so I thought. I have to admit I was a Hershey milk chocolate eater for most of my life. For me, dark chocolate was bitter and astringent, and it left me with an unpleasant taste in my mouth. I didn't know there was anything else. While my mother liked dark chocolate, my parents were very frugal, so spending money on an expensive bar would have been out of the question. Then one day I tried a bar of Bonnat Madagascar and I was blown away. There was no bitterness or astringency, and the chocolate had wonderful fruity notes of cherries and citrus.

I realized that good dark chocolate didn't have to be bitter and astringent. It was this epiphany that made me become a passionate chocophile. I began tasting more and more dark chocolate while still eating a lot of milk chocolate (but no more Hershey). Now I eat mostly dark chocolate. I never thought I'd say that!
Stephan Bonnat

I have to thank Mort Rosenblum and Chloe Doutre-Roussel, whose books about fine chocolate made me buy this bar in the first place. If it weren't for them and Stephan Bonnat, who made the bar, Chocolopolis might not be here today.

The Bonnat Madagascar bar seemed like the most appropriate choice for my bar of the week selection during our anniversary month. It's still one of my favorite bars. Its deep cherry notes and creamy, butter-like texture still remind me of that first bite.

Stop by Saturday for a sample between 11am & 5pm. In honor of Bastille Day we'll have lots of samples of chocolate by French chocolate makers, and we'll be playing DVDs by François Pralus and Michel Cluizel.

Saturday, July 7, 2012

What We're Eating: Escazu Chipotle Chili & Vanilla

Escazu Chipotle Chili & Vanilla 74% Dark Chocolate



In honor of our fourth anniversary, we're devoting our "What We're Eating" features in July to a staff pick. We start with Anna's favorite bar. We'll have samples out today (Saturday). Here's what Anna has to say about one of her favorites:
 
It is well known here at Chocolopolis that I like spicy chocolate. From the outrageous Do Not Eat This Chocolate bar to the subtly spiced Pumpkin Seeds and Guajillo Chili bar. Knowing this, it comes as no surprise that my favorite bar in the store is the Escazu Chipotle Chile and Vanilla bar.

When people see “vanilla” on the packaging, they are skeptical. “How can you taste the vanilla past the spice?” they ask me. I find that the vanilla actually gives the bar a smoother texture that balances out the heat from the chile very well. Rather than a kick, this bar delivers a pleasant bite of spice in silky dark chocolate.

If you are looking for something to set your mouth on fire, this is not the bar for you. But if you are looking to indulge on some chocolate with a little bit of spice, I would definitely recommend this bar!

Anna
Chocolate Bar-ista

Thursday, June 28, 2012

What We're Eating: Cacao Sampaka La Joya 70%

The newest addition to our collection of single-origin chocolate has also quickly become one of my favorites. The Cacao Sampaka La Joya 70% is a complex bar with fruity notes of all kinds. I initially taste notes of rum raisin and tobacco that are quickly followed by tart cherry and black licorice notes. The bar moves back into heavy acid territory with cranberries and a lemon and tobacco finish. This is a very interesting bar that makes me think.

This bar is also notable for the origin of its cacao beans, which hail from the La Joya estate in Tabasco, Mexico. Tabasco is in the area of Mexico that was home to the ancient Olmec civilization (~ 1000 BCE). The Olmecs are the population credited with domesticating cacao as a food. While this region has the oldest chocolate tradition around, it's been tough for artisan chocolate makers to find well-fermented, quality cacao. As a result, we've had very few bars of chocolate in the store made with Mexican-origin cacao.

It's a pleasure to have such a wonderful bar of chocolate, particularly from Tabasco. It comes packaged in a 100g bar size, but it is conveniently presented as 2 thin 50g tasting bars, making it easier to snap and taste.

We'll have samples out this Saturday from 11-5. Let us know if you're in before Saturday and we're happy to give you a preview taste!

Happy chocolate tasting,
Lauren
Chief Chocophile


Wednesday, June 20, 2012

What We’re Eating: Olive & Sinclair Mexican Style Cinnamon Chili Bar


At first bite, there’s an initial kick of heat that is soon followed by the taste of cinnamon.  Instead of the heat building as you eat the Olive & Sinclair Cinnamon Chili bar, the cinnamon tones it down and the two flavors come together as perfect partners in crime. At the end of the melt, your throat is left tingling with a pleasant amount of spice.

This particular bar has a rustic, grainy texture reminiscent of Mexican style chocolate. We think the texture of this bar enhances its Mexican-like flavors.

Come in on Saturday and have a taste for yourself! We'll also be sampling this bar's sibling, the Olive & Sinclair Salt & Pepper bar.

Anna & Stacey
Chocolate Bar-istas

Wednesday, June 13, 2012

Spicy, Sweet & Serious Treats for Dad

Is your dad a Red Hot Chili Pepper or a Serious Connoisseur when it comes to chocolate? Not sure? We've put together profiles in chocolate for Father's Day to help you pick the perfect chocolate for your dad.

Red Hot Chili Gift
The Red Hot Chili Pepper: We see them all the time in the store. They ask, "Do you have chocolate with chilies in it?". We show them our array of chocolate with chilies and their eyes widen. You can see them begin to pant in anticipation of the capscaicin coursing through their veins. Then they try to decide which bar to try first. Do they want to start with the DO NOT EAT THIS CHOCOLATE, with its painful heat that will make them sweat? Do they want to start with something pleasantly hot, like Pacari's Chili Bar, with just enough heat to make their tongues tingle with a pleasing amount of pain? Or do they want something a bit more balanced like the Olive & Sinclair Cinnamon Chili bar? Whatever their preference, we've learned to recommend appropriate bars for the level of heat they'd like. For Father's Day we've put together a Red Hot Chili gift pack that offers some of our favorites.

Salty Nutty Blonde
The Chocoholic: Not content with one bite, the Chocoholic likes his chocolate rich and substantial. Whether he prefers milk or dark chocolate, it's sweetness he's after. A Venchi Chocolate Cigar filled with a truffle & candied orange peel center is sure to be a hit. For something a bit more sophisticated that will leave him in chocolate bliss, get him The Player by Chocolat Moderne. Each square of this bar is filled with dark chocolate & Scotch truffle. Our own Salty Nutty Blonde bar is made with rich milk chocolate and salted blister peanuts and topped with more peanuts and sea salt - it's hard to eat just one bite. If it's quantity he's after, why not get him a pound of chocolate disks? We have a whole menu of single-origin bulk chocolate from chocolate makers such as Guittard, Felchlin and Valrhona. We'll let you taste them to see which might be the best fit for dad.

Connoisseur Gift
The Serious Connoisseur: This dad likes being an expert. Whether he discovered his penchant for expertise through wine, single-malt Scotch or chocolate, the Serious Connoisseur treats every fine food as a research project. When we think of a chocolate connoisseur, we think of Richard, a good customer of ours who started a chocolate review blog. Richard's favorite bar, the Amedei Chuao, is a favorite among many a chocolate connoisseur. Made with cacao from the remote village of Chuao, Venezuela, the Amedei Chuao bar has complex but balanced notes of bread, butter & jam with hints of anise. Its rarity and price make it the perfect special treat for a special day. We've also put together a wonderful Connoisseur Gift that will delight any dark chocolate lover.

Stop by for more suggestions for Father's Day gifts.

Happy chocolate tasting,
Lauren
Chief Chocophile